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I have some older coaches that have DC lighting. Do you have a video that shows how to convert to use on a DCC system? I have been told the DC lighting will likely burn out when used on DCC track.

I wonder if you could just use something like 3M foam tape on the ends instead of adding more wood pieces. That would add some give because the foam contracts and you can slip it in, but if you add too much wood, then it'll be hard to fit in. Thanks for sharing! Now, to find something for N scale...

By the way I used suitcase connectors. 12 gage bus and 20 gage feeders

Question I have a N scale 100ft layout how can I check that I have consistent power flowing through my 12 gage bus? I will admit I have some areas where I put the the feeder in the wrong side and had to take it a loose which I caused breaks. Should just solder or replace the wires? Last question do I more than likely need a smart booster? I'm not getting the red light on the NCE system I'm checking all problem areas need your help.....

@Model Railroading If that capacitor is too big, if I understand correctly, I can use two separate 500MFD 16V capacitors(or even five separate 200MFD 16v) wired in parallel - is that correct ? How high can I go - could I use five 220MFD 16V caps?

I used the link to DHgate but it wasn’t for the speaker and I did a couple searches on DHgate for the iPhone 4 speaker but didn’t find any either new or used. Then I went on eBay to see what might be there and the pickings were pretty slim, a couple came from Germany and Italy at $15 each but the shipping was $37 which made me laugh a little. I know I’ll have better luck at visiting a few local cell phone repair shops and dig through their take off parts box. I notice this video is a couple years old now so does anyone have any suggestions for any other iPhone or tablet speakers that can perform as well as the iPhone 4 speaker? Thanks in advance for any advise.

Hi Larry, would you (or anyone in the comments) know how I could connect a BDL 168 (or similar block detector), to detect a OO gauge loco on one of many blocks within a reversing loop. Will a block detector work if the current is reversed ? Many thanks, Regards Alan

Larry, this doesn’t have anything to do with this segment, but am just checking on you, that you’re okay. Haven’t heard from you in a while. Hope all is okay? I’m sure others here are concerned too. Mike

Question do you have to use the same size bus wire for the NCE connection or can you use smaller gage wiring?

The regular rule for attaching dropper wires appears to be “black to the back” I tend to think as follows. When following the track in a clockwise direction, I work by “red to the right”, the two “R’s”. Is this a valid alternative? ps. Thank you for so many useful and easy to follow videos.

Hi Larry, Can you go into more detail about LCC control and what is available? Also can what system is best for full signalling control, both in regards to full auto use and semi automatic use with dispatching (signal and points control ) ability?

How far into the block can a train go before the signal turns red? Asking because on my layout I may have to have the signal placed a bit in front of the activation sensor.

Be aware that if you lay a sound deadening layer upon plywood and then use nails or screws through into the plywood, the sound will be transmitted to the plywood defeating the sound deadening material's purpose. Don't ask me how I know this. This is amplified 1000% with O gauge trains.

If both DC and DCC are used for the Switch8 for power and controlling, will a short occur if the Tortoise uses a feeder wire from the switch frog in either DC or DCC?

Thank you for posting a very informative video. I am having problems with certain locos on my layout not responding to commands and it mainly happens to be at the far ends of my room sized layout. I was thinking of using the NCE snubbers but as you've shown that a simple resistor and capacitor can be used, I'll be off to the electronics store tomorrow to get some and hopefully solve this problem!

Thanks Larry for all your instructive videos! Hope you are OK. Wish you all the best!

Question, I have a three sectional layout, my bus is loose and open on both ends, one end is to connect to my next board. Making sure it's ok to connect to the other end? Or in the middle like yourself?

Thanks for taking the time to compare 3 methods side by side.

Greatest hobby to invest into Ho locomotive's with DCC n Sound technology they give the locomotive's more power n they'll run better with sound technology than regular version.

I hope you are well larry it has been a little over a month since the last video. Best wishes!

Many thanks Larry not least for the quick response, the video is just what the doctor ordered to clarify the process with the Kadee parts to complete the job, many thanks - John

Hi Larry! where do I find your recent video on converting UK couplers to Kadee, I've seen it once but can't find it again to make sure I order the correct parts to convert my UK rolling stock with Kadee couplers. Thanks John Boyle

this looks much neater than the "dead bug" version! I'd like to see if I can cram it into a UK N-gauge brake van ;)

Love the concept but I'd want to make up a small circuit board for this! I've an ambition to use a Hall switch in the roof so you can tap the vehicle with a magnet on a stick to turn the lighting on or off - an accessory decoder seems like overkill!

I start with small vacuum to all the rails; using natural dusting brush. Then light application of CRC 6-56 (displaces, penetrates, protects). Zero VOC’s; with micro fiber cloths, or t shirts. Use as little as it takes to do the job (this is always the key with anything used on track).. Sometimes use alcohol and m. spirits; but ONLY on track that has not been installed on the layout. Older, used track generally. So there. I clean and electrically condition track perfectly before using on layout. Then going forward, all that is ever needed is vacuuming and fluid cleaning. I do use No-Ox ID; but as instructed (thin application and wiped well so no grease residue is left). Results? less light flickering and smooth running engines....

Re: JST plugs Polarity Correction. 2 pin connector, use a sharp knife of razor blade to ease up the retaining plastic, gently pull the cables out, gently push them back into the correct location. I feel the correction activity is good investment for 2 minutes, is MUCH better result with far less worry or possibility of future error. Thanks for your video, a great reference. PS I Recently purchase some Chinese made JST9 pin connectors, using the above technique, corrected the cable color sequence, so now using them with JST9 DCC chips in old Athearn Locos. :)

Wouldn’t you want the model tech aligners NOT glued to the board? To me, it makes sense to have the last inch of track, where the aligners are, able to have that very limited flexibility to lock in place every single time. It’s only the last inch & I know not everyone would agree with this, but this would create a point of connection at the track seam not completely dependant on the module connectors. This way if a bolt hole expands or a pin shifts over time on the module, the track interlocking seam will find its way to a perfect connection. Cheers!

Larry I’m a little worried, you made some comments about health and haven’t heard from you, hope all is well and sending prayers just in case 😊

I can't find the digitrax toolbox on my android phone. Did digitrax get rid of it?

I always use Dupont connections for wiring to lights. It's a lot easier to remove the shell when you want to detail.

[thank, you for great helpful video]👍

[thank, you for youre great helpful video]👍

Larry: What is Styrene? What is ABS? What is the difference? Do they both take the same cement? What are most diesel locomotive shells made of - ABS, or styrene? I have a tube of "Testors Cement for Plastic Models" and a jar of clear liquid (brush in the bottle) called "Testors Plastic Cement". Both are old. Which would I use on a locomotive shell? I broke a footboard off the front of a favorite locomotive and I want to re-attach it without botching the job. And I don't mind buying Plastruct Bondene if you feel that is the way to go. Your experience would be appreciated.......... Thanks for this video.

Dear Sir, I had just problems laying the flex track in a curve, for the firtst time, so I have now the solution. Thank you very much ! Greetings from Belgium

Just wanted to update and say that I tried again from scratch and I got it to work, woohoo! This time I didn't use the led, not sure if that had anything to do with it as I tried it with another tortoise switch machine.

Larry, I hope all is well with your family, and that you are in good health. Best Wishes

how difficult would it be for retrofit (after track installation)? any major issues other than ripping out a turnout?

Hod can you do program on nce I try figure it out

Larry, When you make a process change you should only change one thing at a time then step back and watch the results otherwise you have no idea which change improved or made things worse. So, which worked? cleaning with a dry rag? cleaning with a rag soaked in Isop? the Deoxit/Isop mix? or a combination of all three. I'm disapointed as after watching the video I still have no idea if the Deoxit is worth the money.

I tried again, purchasing the exact same parts listed in the video and still no result. Is there some hidden detail that is missing in the video?

Thank you very much for the information.

Larry, I have redrawn the pencil sketch (shown starting at 21:45 in this video and on your blog (both versions) in colour using Illustrator and saved as a pdf. If you want them to freely use and distribute please let me know... -Don

My takeaway from this is avoid using an ESU Loksound decoder. And before Loksound growls at Larry about my comment, he never said anything negative about ESU.

I found alcohol caused my track to be slippery on grades. I’ve used very thin layer of No-Ox-Id and have never experienced any loss of traction. I have 3% ruling grades on my layout. Typically run 12 car trains with both steam & diesel.

You could do the same thing using a Kadee #5 spring.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but couldn’t someone (when working with a device without dedicated programming terminals) use a DPST switch as well? I say this because I think it would work if the programming track was connected before the switch and the main line after. This way you can disconnect your main line, but keep the programming track connected?

I've just started thinking about building a small shelf HO layout in a spare bedroom / office, and doing so with DCC controlled motive power, and your videos are invaluable. * subscribed *

Larry - I’m trying to locate a place where I can purchase the powerpoints you used for building your lift out bridge. Well actually I ordered four from “LocoWorks”. I must have been asleep when I think I ordered from this company - in Great Britain because I can’t find the order. The company is in my credit card statement, but I can’t find the company on the Internet. Anyway, is there a local United States or Canadian place to order the powerpoints?

Golly, you guys must have (or used to) a lot more money than I do. 😊 I respect all you say; it is like a full-size construction project, and an expensive hobby could easily get a lot more expensive without good planning. I echo one person's comment about making it modular for disassembly and transport.

I spent an hour copying everything in this video and it did not work, tried a few more times just to make sure and still nothing. Racking my brain trying to work out where I went wrong, but I think I'll try another way somehow.